The Beginner’s Guide To Retinol Products

The Beginner’s Guide To Retinol Products

A retinoid is one of the best, scientifically-backed products you can use to keep your skin looking youthful. These vitamin A derivatives are among the very few skin-care products that can boost collagen, minimizing the appearance of pores and fine lines.

In this episode, we’re bringing on two experts to help you determine the type of retinol product that’s best for you. Board-certified dermatologist Dr. Nikhil Dhingra, of Spring Street Dermatology, explains how retinoids work and how to decide between using over-the-counter (OTC) and prescription-strength products. Wirecutter editor Rory Evans shares the top OTC products from Wirecutter’s extensive testing.

This episode covers:

  • What retinoids can do for your skin: Helping to reduce fine lines and wrinkles. They can also help with hyperpigmentation, protect the skin against sun damage, and thicken skin that’s starting to thin with age.
  • The difference between prescription-strength and OTC retinoids: Prescription-strength retinoids are generally more powerful and can also be more irritating to the skin. Some, such as tretinoin, are already in their active form, retinoic acid, while others bind directly to retinoid receptors in the skin. OTC retinol products, by contrast, are generally less potent and often less irritating because they must be converted by the skin into active retinoic acid before exerting their effects.
  • The difference between OTC ingredients: Although OTC products are often referred to as retinols, they feature a range of active ingredients. Retinal (short for retinaldehyde), requires one conversion step to become retinoic acid. Retinol needs two conversion steps, while retinyl palmitate requires three. Adapalene doesn't convert to retinoic acid and interacts differently with skin to limit oil production and minimize inflammation (which is why it’s mostly used in acne treatment).
  • Tips for using retinol products: Dr. Dhingra recommends starting with a pea-sized amount only a few times a week. To reduce irritation, you can also use the sandwich method—apply moisturizer, layer your retinol product, and top it with moisturizer again to safely dilute the product.
  • OTC retinol products, by skin type: Rory walks us through the top OTC products from Wirecutter’s extensive testing.

Products we recommend:

Additional reading:

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The Wirecutter Show is executive produced by Rosie Guerin and produced by Abigail Keel. Studio support from Maddy Masiello, Nick Pitman, Kyle Grandillo, and Samantha Winter. Episodes are mixed by Catherine Anderson, Daniel Ramirez, and Sophia Lanman. Original music by Dan Powell, Marion Lozano, Elisheba Ittoop, and Diane Wong. Wirecutter’s deputy publisher and general manager is Cliff Levy. Ben Frumin is Wirecutter’s editor-in-chief. Hosted by Rosie Guerin, Caira Blackwell and Christine Cyr Clisset.

Find edited transcripts for each episode here: The Wirecutter Show Podcast


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