#131: Endurance Masterclass: Training and Tactics to Beat the Pump!

#131: Endurance Masterclass: Training and Tactics to Beat the Pump!

Want to climb longer, recover faster, and finally stop getting pumped off your project? Then this episode is for you.

In this special coaching session with Ryan Devlin, I deliver a deep-dive masterclass on rock climbing endurance training, sport climbing performance, and the science of building lasting endurance.

We explore why improving endurance isn't just about surviving pumpy workouts—it's about becoming a more efficient climber by eliminating hidden energy leaks caused by overgripping, poor pacing, inefficient movement, fear, hesitation, and mental tension. You'll learn how better technique, movement economy, breathing, and confidence can dramatically improve your endurance before you ever change your fitness.

Next, we dive into the physiology of climbing performance, breaking down the differences between aerobic endurance, anaerobic power endurance, and maximum strength—and why all three must be trained if you want to reach your climbing potential. I explain how to structure your training using route climbing, treadwall intervals, spray wall workouts, bouldering circuits, and submaximal volume sessions to build endurance the smart way instead of simply climbing until your forearms explode.

Whether you're training for your first 5.12, projecting steep sport routes, preparing for long days at the crag, or simply looking for the most effective climbing training methods backed by exercise science and decades of coaching experience, this episode is packed with practical strategies you can apply immediately. If you're serious about becoming a stronger, more durable, and more efficient climber, this is an episode you'll want to save, revisit, and share with your climbing partners.

  • If you love the T4C podcast, please leave a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and share this episode with a friend or climbing partner!
Podcast Sponsors

Thank you to La Sportiva, PhysiVantage Nutrition, DMM Climbing, Blue Water Ropes!

European climbers, please get your PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV Shop or Oliunid.com.

Mexican climbers visit PhysiVantage.mx

Connect with Eric Hörst

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Cover photo: by Caleb Timmerman Music by Misty Murphy

Copyright 2026 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.

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#134: 22 Ways to Improve Climbing Endurance and Get Less Pumped

#134: 22 Ways to Improve Climbing Endurance and Get Less Pumped

Think you need more endurance because your forearms get pumped? Maybe—but that may be only part of the problem. In this episode, Eric Hörst breaks down 22 practical ways to become a better endurance c...

6 Loka 48min

#133 - CRUSHERS: Kevin Dahlstrom on His Life Reboot, Injury, TRT, and Climbing Hard Over Age 40

#133 - CRUSHERS: Kevin Dahlstrom on His Life Reboot, Injury, TRT, and Climbing Hard Over Age 40

What if some of your best climbing is still ahead of you—even after age 40? My latest T4C Podcast guest, Kevin Dahlstrom, didn't climb his first 5.13 until age 50. Five years later, he was having the ...

8 Syys 1h 6min

#132 - Climb Harder Through Self-Mastery: 9 Lessons for Better Training & Performance

#132 - Climb Harder Through Self-Mastery: 9 Lessons for Better Training & Performance

What if the biggest thing holding back your climbing isn't finger strength, power endurance, body weight, age—or finding the perfect training program? What if the real limiter is much simpler: you're ...

18 Elo 37min

#130 - PRO TIPS: Cameron Horst's Training Secrets Behind a 5.15a Send

#130 - PRO TIPS: Cameron Horst's Training Secrets Behind a 5.15a Send

Cameron Hörst recently completed the hardest route of his climbing career: Big Bone (5.15a/9a+), a king line out Utah's massive Fynn Cave. What makes his first ascent especially compelling isn't just ...

9 Kesä 57min

#129 - WEEKEND CRUSHER: From Florida to 5.13d - The Jessica Jenkins Story

#129 - WEEKEND CRUSHER: From Florida to 5.13d - The Jessica Jenkins Story

In this inspiring new "Weekend Crushers" feature, I sit down with Florida-based climber Jessica Jenkins to unpack her incredible journey from a teenager climbing plastic in Orlando to recently sending...

17 Touko 34min

#128 - CRUSHERS: 5.14c at Age 45 - The Aaron Shamy Comeback Story

#128 - CRUSHERS: 5.14c at Age 45 - The Aaron Shamy Comeback Story

In this inaugural Weekend Crushers episode of the T4C podcast, Eric Hörst sits down with Aaron Shamy—an inspiring example of what's possible when passion, persistence, and smart training intersect wit...

28 Huhti 57min

#127 - Turning Gym Gains to Real Rock Performance: Bridging the Gap

#127 - Turning Gym Gains to Real Rock Performance: Bridging the Gap

After a winter of disciplined training, stronger fingers, improved fitness, and high motivation, most climbers head outdoors expecting breakthrough performances. But the reality often hits hard—routes...

7 Huhti 35min

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