Pro Clinic: Dr. Tyler Nelson Answers Top 10 Listener Questions on Finger Training, Strength Training, and Optimizing for Performance

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In this special Q&A episode, Dr. Tyler Nelson from Camp 4 Human Performance answers YOUR questions, which yielded amazing insights including:

• Which grip type is the best to train?
• How to rotate finger training methodologies for optimal results
• Which finger training to do pre season vs in season
• What’s the ideal percentage of max for safe and effective finger training?
• Is it better to be strong for the grade or week for the grade?
• The mistake of correlating finger strength-to-grade
• The difference between amateurs and pros on their strength-to-grade performance
• Surprising study showing elite climbers use less force on climbs than amateurs
• Set and rep scheme to avoid fatigue when strength training
• Training while injured
• How to effectively train power and endurance on the same day
• How to beat the spinning pull-up bar carnival game
• Do arm wrestling training tactics translate to climbing?
• How Tyler programs his training and climbing days
• What to do if you hit a finger strength plateau

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Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega.

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This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

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The struggle makes us stronger! Let's get out there and try hard. Thanks for supporting the show, y'all.

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And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!