EP 269: The King of the Board Lords on Projecting Tactics, Protein, & Climbing 4 Hours Every Day — Sean Houchins-McCallum (sean911)

EP 269: The King of the Board Lords on Projecting Tactics, Protein, & Climbing 4 Hours Every Day — Sean Houchins-McCallum (sean911)

Sean Houchins-McCallum is the top-ranked climber on the Tension Board 2. We talked about growing up in Iowa, his obsession with board climbing, his insane training schedule, his ultimate board project, why we haven’t seen V15+ on the boards, projecting tactics, how changing his diet allowed him to jump up two grades, his home made pre-workout, TB2 vs. outdoor bouldering, dream lines, and much more.

Rúngne:

rungne.info/nugget

Use code “NUGGET” for 10% off storewide.

Arc’teryx:

Women’s climbing clothing

Men’s climbing clothing

Check out the NEW Kragg Collection.

Maui Nui Venison:

mauinuivenison.com/NUGGET

The healthiest red meat on the planet. Wild harvested and responsibly sourced.

Mad Rock:

madrock.com

Use code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.

Become a Patron:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

  • Michael Roy and Mark and Julie Calhoun

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/sean-houchins-mccallum

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:01:16) – Unsynthesized

(00:04:50) – Sending every classic in 4 months

(00:07:02) – Limit projects every day

(00:09:31) – Sean vs. Noah Wheeler

(00:11:36) – Is boarding its own sport?

(00:16:04) – Becoming a board climber

(00:17:30) – Sean’s ultimate board proj (You’ve Seen the Butcher at 65º)

(00:19:10) – Board tactics

(00:21:28) – Why aren’t there V15s or harder on boards?

(00:26:14) – Getting outside

(00:27:45) – Sean’s dimensions

(00:29:24) – Sean’s warms up

(00:34:07) – A typical week

(00:36:52) – Sean’s projecting tactics

(00:40:42) – 2 months on

(00:46:52) – Does Sean train his strengths?

(00:54:20) – Sean’s weaknesses

(00:57:19) – The Spray layout

(01:01:41) – TB1 vs. TB2

(01:02:49) – Mirroring climbs & the leaderboard

(01:07:05) – Intimidating holds on the TB2

(01:10:19) – Go-to shoes

(01:11:36) – Working & setting

(01:17:11) – Outdoor goals

(01:18:55) – Jumping up 2 grades after changing his diet

(01:26:52) – TB2 vs. outside

(01:31:57) – New board companies

(01:34:59) – Sport climbing feature

(01:38:59) – Dream lines

(01:40:17) – Rapid fire questions

(02:00:53) – How Low Can You Go?

Denne episoden er hentet fra en åpen RSS-feed og er ikke publisert av Podme. Den kan derfor inneholde annonser.

Episoder(394)

EP 304: Justen Sjong Returns — Unique Challenges for Tall & Short Climbers (And What Actually Helps)

EP 304: Justen Sjong Returns — Unique Challenges for Tall & Short Climbers (And What Actually Helps)

Justen Sjong (The Climbing Sensei) returns to the podcast to discuss the unique challenges of being tall or short in climbing. We talk about the disadvantages tall climbers face, how injury risk and t...

18 Aug 2h 12min

EP 303: Adam Ondra Returns — How He Prepares to Flash V15, and Why the Best Sport Climbers Are Also the Best Boulderers

EP 303: Adam Ondra Returns — How He Prepares to Flash V15, and Why the Best Sport Climbers Are Also the Best Boulderers

Adam Ondra is back on the podcast to discuss his incredible winter bouldering season, including four V15 (8C) flashes. We talked about why the best sport climbers can keep up with the bouldering speci...

13 Jul 1h 43min

EP 302: Aaron Shamy — The Epic Comeback: Sending 5.14c After a 15-Year Hiatus

EP 302: Aaron Shamy — The Epic Comeback: Sending 5.14c After a 15-Year Hiatus

Aaron Shamy has an inspiring story: he won the X Games in the ‘90s, took a 15-year hiatus from climbing, got out of shape, and then began a 6+ year comeback that culminated in sending the hardest rout...

29 Jun 1h 42min

EP 301: Matt Samet — Escaping Benzo Addiction, Rifle in the Early ‘90s, and Embracing the Moonboard in His 40s

EP 301: Matt Samet — Escaping Benzo Addiction, Rifle in the Early ‘90s, and Embracing the Moonboard in His 40s

Matt Samet is the former editor-in-chief of Climbing Magazine, a writer and author, and a sport-climbing pioneer. We talked about his decade-plus battle with benzo addiction, his advice for people who...

8 Jun 2h 10min

EP 300: Jeff Patterson — What Climbers Can Learn from Martial Arts (and How 20 Minutes of Meditation Could Change Your Life)

EP 300: Jeff Patterson — What Climbers Can Learn from Martial Arts (and How 20 Minutes of Meditation Could Change Your Life)

Jeff Patterson is a martial arts instructor with black belt equivalency in 6x different martial arts, including Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu, Muay Thai, and Tai Chi. We talked about how practicing the meditati...

25 Mai 1h 1min

EP 299: Herm Feissner — A Unique Training Philosophy at Age 53, Understanding Hard Moves, and Balancing an Engineering Career with Travel & Climbing

EP 299: Herm Feissner — A Unique Training Philosophy at Age 53, Understanding Hard Moves, and Balancing an Engineering Career with Travel & Climbing

Herm Feissner is a lifer climber based in Fort Collins, CO. We talked about doing the FA of The Practitioner V11 in Leavenworth, WA, in the early 2000s, his training philosophy at 53 years old, how hi...

14 Mai 2h 9min

EP 298: Sonnie Trotter — Gunning for 5.15, How He Trained as a Teen, and Stamina vs. Strength

EP 298: Sonnie Trotter — Gunning for 5.15, How He Trained as a Teen, and Stamina vs. Strength

Sonnie Trotter is a Canadian professional rock climber and one of the most accomplished and respected climbers of his generation. We talked about his goal to climb 5.15, my impression of meeting him a...

27 Apr 2h 7min

EP 297: Peter Mortimer (filmmaker) — Dean Potter’s Rivalry with Alex Honnold, His Inner Demons, and The Dark Wizard

EP 297: Peter Mortimer (filmmaker) — Dean Potter’s Rivalry with Alex Honnold, His Inner Demons, and The Dark Wizard

Peter Mortimer is an award-winning filmmaker (King Lines, Valley Uprising, The Dawn Wall, The Alpinist) and co-creator of the Reel Rock Film Tour. We talked about his latest project, The Dark Wizard, ...

14 Apr 54min

Populært innen Fakta

fastlegen
dine-penger-pengeradet
relasjonspodden-med-dora-thorhallsdottir-kjersti-idem
treningspodden
rss-orjasater
foreldreradet
jakt-og-fiskepodden
rss-strid-de-norske-borgerkrigene
rss-kunsten-a-leve
sinnsyn
hverdagspsyken
rss-var-forste-kaffe
rss-impressions-2
gravid-uke-for-uke
mikkels-paskenotter
fryktlos
tomprat-med-gunnar-tjomlid
rss-kunstig-intelligens-med-elisabeth-maren-og-morten
hr-podden-2
rss-renters-rente